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我在貴州已經(jīng)生活了好幾年，但之前從來(lái)沒(méi)去過(guò)都勻。而這座小城以它的綠茶——“都勻毛尖”——聞名全中國(guó)。

I have been living in Guizhou for several years, but until today I had never been to Duyun. Yet this small city is famous throughout China for its green tea —“Duyun Maojian”.

今天，我終于來(lái)到了這里，在螺螄殼山上。四周是連綿不絕的茶園，一直延伸到霧氣繚繞的遠(yuǎn)方。我穿上水族的傳統(tǒng)服裝，拿起竹編茶簍，和當(dāng)?shù)氐膵D女們一起走進(jìn)了茶園。這是我第一次親手采茶。首先讓我驚嘆的是氣味——清新、青草香，帶著淡淡的花香。我俯身湊近茶樹(shù)，深吸一口，一下子明白了：超市里的袋泡茶連這香氣的百分之一都比不上。

Now, finally, I am here, on Luosike Mountain. All around me stretch endless tea terraces, disappearing into the distant mist. I have put on the traditional costume of the Shui ethnic group, taken a woven bamboo basket, and gone out into the fields together with the local women. This is my first time picking tea myself. The first thing that strikes me is the smell — fresh, grassy, with a light floral note. I lean toward the tea bush, inhale deeply, and suddenly understand: not even one hundredth of this aroma can be found in a supermarket tea bag.

 

有人告訴我：只采最嫩的芽葉——就是剛剛在枝頭綻開(kāi)的那一點(diǎn)點(diǎn)。采摘時(shí)要很小心，用兩個(gè)手指輕輕掐下，不能傷到旁邊的嫩芽。一個(gè)小時(shí)下來(lái)，我只采了小小一把——這份活計(jì)需要耐心和輕柔?？墒?，每一片這樣的小小葉子，都是一口純凈、微甜的茶湯的未來(lái)。

They explained to me: only the very youngest leaves are picked — the ones that have just unfurled at the tips of the shoots. You have to pluck them carefully, with two fingers, without damaging the neighboring buds. After an hour, I have gathered only a handful — this work demands patience and gentleness. But every one of these tiny leaves is the promise of a pure, slightly sweet infusion.

 

在俄羅斯，對(duì)我來(lái)說(shuō)，茶一直就只是一種熱飲。我們用茶壺泡紅茶，加糖、檸檬、蜂蜜，有時(shí)還加果醬。沒(méi)有人會(huì)去想這片葉子長(zhǎng)在哪里、誰(shuí)采的、怎么揉捻和干燥的。

Back in Russia, for me, tea was always just a hot drink. We would brew black tea in a teapot, add sugar, lemon, honey, sometimes jam. No one ever thought about where the leaf grew, who picked it, how it was rolled and dried. 

但在中國(guó)，完全不一樣。在這里，茶是一種哲學(xué)。一開(kāi)始會(huì)驚訝于它的多樣：綠茶、紅茶、烏龍茶、白茶、普洱……然后你慢慢明白，每一種茶都需要不同的對(duì)待：水溫不同、茶具不同、沖泡時(shí)間也不同。而最重要的是，這里的人們不僅在意味道，還在意香氣、湯色，甚至茶葉在杯中舒展的姿態(tài)。今天，手捧著剛采下的毛尖，我感到自己正一點(diǎn)點(diǎn)融入這種文化。

But in China, everything is different. Here, tea is a whole philosophy. At first you are amazed by the variety: green, red (black), oolong, white, pu’er...Then you begin to understand that each type requires special care — different water temperature, different teaware, different brewing time. And most importantly, here people value not only the taste, but also the aroma, the color of the infusion, even the way the leaf unfurls in the cup. Today, holding the freshly picked Maojian in my hands, I feel myself gradually becoming a part of this culture.

 

真正的都勻毛尖，不像任何其他的綠茶。它的香氣是剛割過(guò)的青草、清晨的露水，再加上一點(diǎn)點(diǎn)堅(jiān)果的調(diào)子。當(dāng)我把茶葉放進(jìn)透明的玻璃杯里，沖入熱水，葉子便緩緩沉入杯底，在水中輕輕舞動(dòng)。第一口——柔和，微微甘甜，沒(méi)有苦澀。余味悠長(zhǎng)而清爽，帶著一絲幾乎察覺(jué)不到的花香。我閉上眼睛，仿佛又看見(jiàn)了螺絲殼山、晨霧、采茶女子們的雙手……這茶的味道，就是這片土地的味道。

Real Duyun Maojian is unlike any other green tea. Its aroma is a blend of freshly cut grass, morning dew, and a subtle nutty note. When I steeped the leaves in a transparent glass, they slowly sank to the bottom, dancing in the hot water. The first sip is soft, slightly sweet, without bitterness. The aftertaste is long and refreshing, with a barely perceptible floral hint. I closed my eyes and imagined Luosike Mountain, the morning mist, the hands of the tea masters...The taste of the tea turned out to be the taste of this very place itself.

現(xiàn)在我終于明白，為什么中國(guó)人說(shuō)：“好茶，不是用嘴記住的，而是用心記住的”。

Now I understand why the Chinese say:“Good tea is remembered not by the mouth, but by the heart”.

 

Kucherova Tatiana

貴州日?qǐng)?bào)天眼新聞外籍主播

編輯 張婷

二審 楊韜

三審 田旻佳