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清明時節(jié),貴州人惦記一年的“綠胖子”登場咯!As the Qingming season arrives, Guizhou’s Qingming Ba is finally here!

清明時節(jié),貴州人家的灶臺上,飄起了青草香。

When Qingming comes, the fresh scent of grass drifts from the kitchen stoves of Guizhou families.


每年這個時候,田埂上、山坡邊,一種貼著地面生長的野菜悄然繁茂。它叫清明菜,葉片嫩綠,開著細(xì)碎的黃色小花,散發(fā)著淡淡的草木氣息。貴州人提著竹籃走進(jìn)山野,彎腰采摘這春天最樸素的饋贈。

Every year at this time, a kind of wild herb growing close to the ground quietly thrives along the field ridges and hillsides. It is called Qingming herb, with tender green leaves and tiny yellow flowers, exuding a faint plant fragrance. People in Guizhou carry bamboo baskets into the mountains and fields, bending down to pick this simplest gift of spring.


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清明菜


采回來的清明菜,摘去老根,洗凈,剁碎,和糯米粉一起反復(fù)揉搓。面團(tuán)在手中漸漸染上淡淡的青綠色——那是清明菜汁液滲進(jìn)粉里的顏色,也是屬于這個季節(jié)的“春色”。

The harvested Qingming herbs are trimmed of old roots, washed, chopped, and kneaded repeatedly with glutinous rice flour. The dough gradually takes on a light green hue—the color from the herb’s juice soaking into the flour, the very color of spring for this season.


餡料是清明粑的另一重靈魂。在貴州,咸甜兩派各有所愛。

The filling is another soul of Qingming Ba. In Guizhou, people have their own preferences for sweet and savory flavors.


甜餡多用引子,即芝麻、酥麻與紅糖調(diào)制的餡料,也有人家加入花生碎,增添一層香脆。餡料包進(jìn)糯米皮里,蒸熟后輕輕一咬,糖汁緩緩流出,甜而不膩,與清明菜的清爽相得益彰。

Sweet fillings are mostly made of yinzi, a mixture of sesame, perilla seeds and brown sugar. Some families also add crushed peanuts for extra crispness. Wrapped in glutinous rice dough and steamed, a gentle bite releases slowly flowing sweet syrup, rich but not cloying, perfectly complementing the fresh taste of Qingming herb.


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包成團(tuán)狀的清明粑


咸餡則更顯貴州特色。椿菜臘肉是經(jīng)典搭配——將春季采摘的椿菜嫩芽焯水切碎,與切成小丁的老臘肉一同翻炒,臘肉的油脂浸潤椿菜,咸香濃郁。也有用野蔥、豆腐干或鮮肉做餡,做法靈活,各有講究。包好餡料,搓圓壓扁,上鍋蒸二十分鐘。

Savory fillings highlight more of Guizhou’s local characteristics. Toon shoots with cured pork is a classic combination. Fresh spring toon shoots are blanched, chopped and stir-fried with diced cured pork; the fat of the cured pork soaks into the toon, bringing a rich savory flavor. Some fillings also use wild scallions, dried tofu or fresh pork, with flexible and delicate practices. After wrapping the fillings, the dough is rolled into balls, flattened, and steamed for twenty minutes.


掀開鍋蓋的瞬間,熱氣裹著青草香撲面而來。蒸好的清明粑碧綠瑩潤,外皮軟糯。咬一口,咸餡的椿菜臘肉鮮香四溢,甜餡的引子紅糖綿密清甜。無論哪一種,嚼起來都是春天的韌勁。

The moment the lid is lifted, hot steam mixed with grassy fragrance rushes out. The steamed Qingming Ba is bright green and glossy, with soft and glutinous skin. One bite bursts with flavor: the savory toon and cured pork filling releases a rich aroma, while the sweet yinzi and brown sugar filling is smooth and refreshing. Whichever flavor it is, every chew carries the tender yet firm taste of spring.


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咸餡清明粑


在貴州,清明粑從來不只是吃食。老一輩人常說,吃了清明粑,才算過了清明。村里的家家戶戶都會做上幾籠,祭祖時擺在供桌上,家人團(tuán)聚時圍坐分食。這樸素的習(xí)俗,在貴州各地流傳,成為一代又一代人共同的味覺記憶。

In Guizhou, Qingming Ba is never just a kind of food. The elders often say that Qingming is not truly celebrated until one has eaten Qingming Ba. Every household in the village makes several steamer baskets, placing them on the altar for ancestor worship and sharing them together at family gatherings. This simple custom spreads across Guizhou and has become a shared taste memory for generations.


清明菜的時令極短。它只在清明前后最為鮮嫩,一旦開花,便失去了食用的價值。正因如此,貴州人格外珍惜這一口春天的滋味。把田埂上的野菜揉進(jìn)面團(tuán)里,包上各家各戶偏好的餡料,蒸熟了,吃進(jìn)肚里,仿佛就留住了春天。

Qingming herb is only in season for a very short time. It is tender and fresh only around Qingming, and once it blooms, it loses its edible value. That is why people in Guizhou cherish this taste of spring all the more. Kneading the wild herbs from the field ridges into the dough, wrapping in each family’s favorite filling, steaming and eating it, it feels as if they have kept spring itself.


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綠瑩瑩的清明粑,軟糯清甜,有滋有味,這是貴州人舌尖上的味道,是對時令的敬重,也是對生活質(zhì)樸的熱愛。

The bright green Qingming Ba, soft, glutinous, sweet and flavorful, is the taste on the tip of Guizhou people’s tongues, a respect for the seasons, and the most simple love for life.


貴州日報(bào)天眼新聞記者

李鈺 鄧冰

編輯 何濤

二審 楊韜

三審 田旻佳