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對于很多想了解貴州的外國人來說，這片土地的山水，或許是第一印象。而味道，往往來得更直接，也更難忘。

For many foreigners who want to understand Guizhou, its landscapes are often the first impression. But its flavors tend to arrive more directly—and stay longer in memory.

 

在貴州生活多年的俄羅斯人緹婭娜，最近又開啟了她的“尋味貴州”之旅，她希望通過各式各樣的貴州味道，更進(jìn)一步理解這個(gè)“第二家鄉(xiāng)”。

Tatiana, a Russian who has lived in Guizhou for years, has recently set out once again on her journey to explore its tastes. Through a variety of local flavors, she hopes to better understand this“second home”of hers.

 

在省會貴陽云巖區(qū)東新路上，藏著一家地道的黔東南味道——榕江牛癟。緹婭娜聽說，這是貴州最有特色的味道之一，不容錯(cuò)過。

On Dongxin Road in Yunyan District, Guiyang, the provincial capital, there is a small restaurant serving authentic flavors from southeastern Guizhou—Rongjiang Niu Bie. Tatiana had heard that this is one of the most distinctive tastes of Guizhou, something not to be missed.

 

進(jìn)店，落座。

She walks in and takes a seat.

 

一鍋墨綠色的湯被端上桌，在火力加持下在面前翻滾。

A pot of dark green broth is brought to the table, bubbling steadily over the flame.

 

氣味先到了。不是熟悉的香，而是一種帶著青草、發(fā)酵，還有一點(diǎn)說不上來的“野”的氣息。

The smell arrives first. Not a familiar aroma, but something with notes of grass, fermentation, and a hint of something wild that is hard to describe.

 

“這個(gè)……是可以吃的嗎？”緹婭娜微微皺眉。

“Is this… actually edible?”Tatiana frowns slightly.

 

這不是她第一次在貴州吃“看起來不太容易理解的食物”。但這一次，還是不一樣。

This is not her first time encountering a dish in Guizhou that seems difficult to understand at first glance. But this time, it feels different.

 

牛癟，本質(zhì)上是牛等食草動(dòng)物胃中尚未完全消化的青草，經(jīng)處理過濾后形成湯底，再配以辣椒、花椒、山柰等香料烹制而成。

Niu Bie, at its core, is made from partially digested grass found in the stomach of herbivorous animals such as cattle. It is processed and filtered to create a broth, then cooked with ingredients like chili, Sichuan pepper, and aromatic herbs.

 

在當(dāng)?shù)?，這種味道被形容為“先苦后甘”?？啵堑谝粚?，來自棰油籽、膽汁等食材。然后才是辣、香，還有一點(diǎn)慢慢浮現(xiàn)的回甘。層次復(fù)雜而濃烈。

Locals often describe its flavor as“bitter at first, then sweet.” The bitterness comes first—derived from ingredients such as herbal seeds and bile. Then come the layers of spice, aroma, and a slowly emerging aftertaste. Complex and intense.

 

對初嘗者而言，這往往意味著一次味覺邊界的挑戰(zhàn)。

For first-time tasters, it is often a challenge to their boundaries of taste.

 

“剛?cè)肟诘臅r(shí)候，有點(diǎn)苦，還有一點(diǎn)說不上來的味道。”緹婭娜嘗試第一口后坦言，“很特別。”

“At the first bite, it’s a bit bitter, and there’s a flavor I can’t quite describe,”Tatiana says after trying it.“But it’s very unique.”

 

第二口，第三口，她試著去分辨味道。慢慢地，她理解當(dāng)?shù)厝怂f的，癟食并不是一種“討好型”的味道，而是一種需要時(shí)間去理解的飲食表達(dá)。

With a second bite, then a third, she begins to slow down and try to distinguish the layers. Gradually, she starts to understand what locals mean: this is not a flavor designed to please immediately, but one that takes time to appreciate.

 

從更早的歷史來看，這種食俗與當(dāng)?shù)氐淖匀画h(huán)境和生活方式密切相關(guān)。

Historically, this unique food tradition is closely tied to the region’s natural environment and way of life.

 

在鹽資源相對匱乏的年代，人們通過發(fā)酵、草本與動(dòng)物消化過程，創(chuàng)造新的味道層次，用以豐富飲食結(jié)構(gòu)。

In times when salt was scarce, people created new layers of flavor through fermentation, herbs, and even animal digestion processes, enriching their diets in the process.

 

在今天看來，這既是一種生存智慧，也是一種味覺創(chuàng)造。

Today, this can be seen as both a form of survival wisdom and a kind of culinary creativity.

 

在榕江，牛癟早已融入日常飲食。“看村超，吃牛癟”，更成為不少游客來到這里的固定體驗(yàn)。

In Rongjiang, Niu Bie has long been part of everyday life.“Watch the Village Super League, eat Niu Bie”has even become a common experience for visitors.

 

緹婭娜嘗試用當(dāng)?shù)厝说姆绞竭M(jìn)食——將牛肉蘸著癟湯，再配上香菜和青菜?！拔矣X得貴州人很勇敢，”她笑著說，“也很有智慧，會想出這樣一種食物?！?/p>

Tatiana begins to eat the way locals do—dipping slices of beef into the broth, pairing them with cilantro and leafy greens.“I think people in Guizhou are very brave,”she says with a smile,“and also very wise, to come up with something like this.”

 

她還注意到，當(dāng)?shù)厝似毡檎J(rèn)為牛癟具有一定的保健作用。近年來的研究也顯示，其中含有多種氨基酸等成分，具有一定營養(yǎng)價(jià)值。

She also notices that many locals believe Niu Bie has certain health benefits. Recent studies suggest it contains various amino acids and may offer nutritional value.

 

“有些味道，不是為了第一口就讓人喜歡。”緹婭娜意識到，“而是讓你慢慢去理解，這里的人是怎么生活的。”

“Some flavors are not meant to be liked at the first bite,”Tatiana reflects,“but to help you understand how people here live.”

 

在全球化語境下，飲食早已不是單純的味覺體驗(yàn)，更是文化溝通的一種方式。

In a globalized world, food is no longer just about taste—it is also a way of cultural communication.

 

當(dāng)一個(gè)來自俄羅斯的年輕人，在貴州的小城里嘗試一口帶著青草發(fā)酵氣息的湯底，這種跨越地域與文化的瞬間，也讓“貴州的味道”有了新的表達(dá)。

When a young woman from Russia takes a sip of a broth infused with the essence of fermented grass in a small town in Guizhou, this moment—crossing regions and cultures—offers a new way for the world to experience the taste of Guizhou.

 

貴州日報(bào)天眼新聞?dòng)浾?王旗

編輯 張婷

二審 楊韜

三審 田旻佳